Beginner Fly Tying: Thin Mint Bugger

Thin Mint Bugger

In selecting a new fly pattern for our October Beginner Fly Tying session, I chose the “Thin Mint Bugger.” This pattern will help us learn new tying skills and provide our class with a great fly the fall and winter months. Remember, as we select artificial flies for the colder months, fly anglers need to be proactive, knowing that during this time of the year, freshwater fish species do not have an abundance of food sources. Yet, despite their low energy requirements during the colder months, fish still need to eat whatever natural foods are available, and minnows contain significantly more energy than a tiny midge.

We look forward to having you Join us on Tuesday, October 15, at 7:00 p.m. at Trinity United Methodist Church, 703 W. Patrick Street, Frederick. As always, we welcome those who have never tied an artificial fly to join our beginner fly tying classes. Materials for the fly pattern of the month are provided to all who attend. Vises and tying equipment are also provided for beginners.

*If you are planning on attending the session, please remember to reply to the PVFF fly tying group email which will be sent to you several days prior to the class (dfine1443@gmail.com). It is important for Martyn and I to know that you plan to attend, so that we can have sufficient materials available. Also, please let us know if you would like to borrow a vise and tools for the session.

Tying instructions:

(modification by Don Fine from the internet)

Materials: 

  • Streamer hook – e.g. Mustad 79580 or equivalent, sizes 6-10
  • Crystal flash 
  • Marabou: olive, brown, black
  • Peacock herl
  • Fine gold wire
  • Saddle hackle
  • Brass or Gold bead
  • Medium lead wire

Tying Steps: 

  1. After pinching down the hook barb insert a bead onto the hook. 
  2. Immediately behind the bead, wrap ~1”-1 ½” of lead wire and slide forward into the cone of the bead (suggest coating the hook shank with quick dry super glue prior to pushing the lead wrap forward to the bead).
  3. Start thread wraps immediately behind the lead wraps, then wrap the thread to the rear stopping immediately above the hook barb (on the straight portion of the hook shank). 
  4. Tie in the three marabou feathers in the following order: black (1), brown (2) and olive (3).
  5. Secure the entire bundle of marabou feathers with several final wraps forward, then reversing thread wraps to the point where the marabou clumps were initially tied in. 
  6. Select a piece of crystal flash (approximately 4” long. Place it along the near side of the hook and wrap thread over it forward ~1/2”, fold the (forward facing) crystal flash piece to the opposite side of the hook and make thread wraps over it. Clip off the ends of the crystal flash to the length of the marabou tail. 
  7. Secure a 2”-2 ½” piece of gold wire with thread wraps close to the base of the tail. 
  8. At the same location (as the gold wire is tied in) tie in a saddle hackle by its tip.
  9. Next (at the same location) tie in 2-3 pieces of peacock herl and wrap thread forward stopping `1/4” behind the hook eye. 
  10. Twist the peacock herl pieces into a ‘rope’ and wrap the peacock rope forward stopping at the location where the thread is hanging. Secure the peacock with several thread wraps and cut off excess peacock herl. 
  11. Counter-wrap (wrapping toward the tier, contrary to wrapping other materials away from the tier) the gold wire forward and secure at the same location as the thread is hanging (where the peacock herl is terminated).
  12. Palmer (wrap segmented fashion) the saddle hackle forward to the bead and secure with several wraps. Cut off excess hackle feather and make additional thread wraps to secure the hackle feather. 
  13. (Additional step if necessary). In the event that there is a very small space between the terminal end of the saddle hackle and the bead head, this can be filled with a touch of dubbing; i.e. a dubbing collar immediately behind the bead head. 
  14. Drop of cement on the thread (head). 

By Don Fine